Climbing Mt. Fuji

Also known as standing in the world's longest, highest, coldest line.

I returned from my week of adventure yesterday morning and I am still grappling with the lack of sleep. Sleeping on ferries, in capsule hotels, and various people's floors isn't the best way to fulfill one's sleep requirement but what is many hours of missed sleep when you receive such memorable experiences in return?

I ascended the mountain with nine Japanese friends, only two of whom I had met before. We drove from Yokohama to Yamanashi and arrived at the 5th stage just before 9pm. Yes, we were hiking at night. The idea is to reach the summit just before sunrise and watch the sun's rays emerge while sitting atop of Japan. As I had mentioned before, I had no delusions that the hike would be an amazing natural experience like hiking the West Coast Trail in Canada. I was aware of the crowds, the garbage and the smell of septic tanks would be an integral part of the expereince. However, the sheer number of people was overwhelming.

We began our climb at 9pm and there were quite a few people around. However, you could easily pass the slower the hikers and maintain a decent pace. Occassionally, there would be bottlenecks that would slow one down but, overall, you could march to your own drummer. As the night progressed, the crowds thickened to the point where passing slower hikers became impossible. Hikers completely filled the trail and each 4 or 5 steps taken were followed by a minute or two of waiting until I could progress 4 or 5 more steps closer to the summit. Needless to say, the time (about 3am) and the cold, howling wind, made the minutes of waiting seem much longer. The sky began to brighten in the east around 4:30am and the dreams of watching the sunrise from the summit were dashed. The sheer number of people made it impossible to climb any faster.

Sunrise occurred at about 5am and I managed to take a few pictures of the sun as it shone intermittently between the fast moving clouds that swirled around Mt. Fuji's peak. After another hour of slogging, I reached the top and huddled in a shelter in an attempt to protect myself from the wind and volcanic dust. After recovering for about an hour on the summit, we gathered our gear up for the descent down. Usually I enjoy the climb more than the descent but the lack of people, the soft volcanic sand that cushioned my joints, made it more enjoyable than I would have imagined. Plus, the idea of returning to the car provided a powerful incentive for a quick descent.

It was interesting to watch people climb the mountain. Many seemed to be on auto-pilot, moving at the same pace as those in front. As I waited for my friends to catch up, I would watch one person stop for no apparent reason. Although there was room to pass on the side, those following would also stop and rest. It seemed more of a forced death march rather than an enjoyable, memorable experience. It also surprised me to see so many women making the climb. I would estimate that 60% of the climbers were female and there were many groups of all female climbers. Living in a town where I am the only foreigner, I was also amazed to see all the foreigners. On reflection though, any famous attraction attracts tourists and Mt. Fuji is no different. The hikers are certainly not reflective of the makeup of the general population.

Would I recommend climbing Mt. Fuji? Yes, definitely but with the caveat that anyone expecting a "back-to-nature" experience should steer clear. Saturday night is probably the worst possible night to climb given the hordes of climbers. A weekday night would certainly be less crowded and undoubtedly more enjoyable. Climbing during the day is also an option but there is something undeniably unique in climbing a moutain at night and watching the sunrise from the summit.

Other insights/observations:

1. Toilets at the base cost 50 yen while those on top cost 200. Manage your bladder accordingly. Also, be prepared to stand in line to use the facilities.

2. Drinks cost 200 yen at the base (already 50 yen more than usual) and rise according to the elevation. Packing your own food and drink is certainly most economical.

3. Walking sticks can be purchased at the base and branded at each of the stations on the way up.

4. Starting at the 五合目(5th stage), you work your way to the 九合目 which is the summit. Each level was usually indicated by a collection of mountain huts. However, you quickly learn that each stage has a number of substages also indicated by a collection of huts. It was a little disheartening to trudge along for about an hour, reach the huts and realize that you are still on the same stage.

5. Dress for the winter. Although it was warm enough for just a t-shirt and shorts and the base, as you climb, the temperature drops and the wind picks up. Although I did not have a thermometer, I am sure the temperature was close to 0 and the windchill made it seem even colder. Ensure you have warm headwear, a good jacket with the ability to add or subtract layers underneath and a pair of gloves. In other words, dress for winter. Most people brought their skiwear although I soldiered on with my cold weather cycling gear.